The simplest solution is to visit the equipment manufacturer’s website to see if a replacement battery pack is available. Sometimes there isn’t and, when there is, the prices can come as a shock. In my case, the equipment worked just fine and looked to have a good few more years of life in it — a new battery would suffice.
Building a battery pack from individual cells generally requires a degree of dexterity, electrical expertise, and a spot welder. As you can see from the old unwrapped battery pack in Figure 3, the five green cells are neatly connected at the positive and negative contacts via thin, spot-welded nickel strips.
This article has been viewed 2,158,304 times. To change a car battery, pop the hood of your car and locate the battery, which will be kept on either side of the car’s frame. Disconnect the negative terminal, which is labeled with a minus sign, before disconnecting the positive terminal to keep it from short-circuiting.
Run the new negative cable back through the engine bay in the same route the old one took. Use a flashlight to ensure neither cable is coming into contact with any belts. Belts spin at high speeds under the engine bay and can damage battery cables. Place the battery back in the car.
The simplest and most costly solution is to order a replacement battery pack. But have you considered just replacing the cells in the battery pack? This approach saves money and reduces waste. Furthermore, you can select replacement cells with a larger capacity than the originals. This isn’t just a repair; it’s an upgrade! It’s All Gone Quiet…
In the event of an overvoltage or undervoltage condition, it disconnects the cells using 2 × 2 MOSFETs (at the bottom). Further reading on balancing lithium batteries is available under and . The BMS is included if you buy a whole new battery pack assembly, so the BMS board (which still works) from the old pack will be redundant.