Remove the T-10 torx screw on the bottom of the device that attaches the base tube to the circuit board. Turn the device so that the base tube is on top. Remove the base tube by pulling up. May need to cut the rubber adhesive between the base tube to the circuit board.
The other trick commonly used is to cut the pins of the DIP and then you can treat each pin as a single through hole part – and that is generally less aggressive to the PCB, there by saving your board, but destroying the chip. In the video [Clay Cowgill] is using a Hakko 850 hot air rework station to desolder parts from an Atari 130EX motherboard.
Pull the white wire out of the hot glue. Unbolt the heatsink with a 5.5-mm socket and a Phillips PH1 screwdriver. Remove the heat sink; it should detach from the bottom of the device. Remove the T-10 torx screw on the bottom of the device that attaches the base tube to the circuit board. Turn the device so that the base tube is on top.
Locate and disconnect the two molex connectors found on either side of the ribbon cable connector on the bottom half of the device. Remove the three 1 cm T-10 Torx screws. Carefully press out the white base tube and push up on the circuit board. Note that there is a small wire connecting the circuit board to the base.
Normally, before you desolder a Dual In-line Package (DIP) chip, you have a decision to make: Are you interested in saving the chip or the PCB? The repeated cycles of heating and reheating the PCB while using solder wick, or even a “solder sucker”, can cause a real problem for the PCB. You run the risk of delamination of the PCB traces.