They run on batteries (usually AA batteries). External flashes contrast with your camera’s built-in flash—the pop-up flash, which you should never, ever use, no matter what, because it looks terrible (more on that later!). The pop-up flash is integrated into the top of your camera, and it flips up when you hit the flash icon.
If you're using a multi-flash setup, the Phottix Odin II is a great choice. It's probably overkill for just one flash, but it delivers outstanding performance and speeds. 3. Godox X3 (Xnano) Tinier than other triggers, and operated entirely by touchscreen, the Godox X3 (aka Flashpoint R2 Nano) feels like a next-generation flash trigger. 4.
Gain exclusive access to deals on the gear you love, and stay up to date with the latest content in underwater photography! What is a “Flash Trigger” and why would I want one? A flash trigger is a device that allows you to trigger an external strobe using its own source of light rather than utilizing a camera flash or an electrical signal.
While all of the flashes put out light, they do so in different amounts. Take the A1, which produces 75 watt-seconds of power; this translates to about 50% more power than a standard flash. The B10, on the other hand, produces 250 watt-seconded of power, which is about five times more flash power than the standard 50 watt-second flash.
There are two basic types of wireless flash triggers: Radio and IR. Radio Radio transmitters send commands to the remote flashes using radio waves. Radio signals can round corners and pass through objects; therefore, the camera and speedlights do not need to be in sight of one another and can be operated at a distance away from each other. IR
Regardless of what camera you are using, most wireless flash triggers will have the ability to fire a flash using a signal from the camera’s hot shoe or PC sync cord. But, if you want to have added control of the light’s output power or automatic power control you will need a trigger system that is compatible with your specific camera.